Buttonhole-sewing machine.



J. KIBWICZ. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION PILED MAY 23, 1912. 1,0 2,475, Patented-May 20, 1913.

FLELL J. KIEWIGZ. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MAbHINE. APPLICATION FILED. MAY .23, 1912 L 2,475, Patented May 20, 1913.

- 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2 the upper thread.

sewing machines mrri n srarnsgiea oneron.

JOHN KIEWICZ, 0F HYDE PARK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB TO THE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

-BUTTONHOLE-SEW'ING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented m so, am 3.

Application filed May 23, 1912. 'Serial No. 699,113.

T 0 Ml whom it may concern Be-iii; known t-hat'I, JOHN lxmwrcz, a

State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in ButtonholeSewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawing. 10.

My invention relates to button hole sewing machines, particularly of that type which is known to the trade as the Reece button. hole machine, wherein a stitch frame carrying the stitch forming mechanism on the one hand and a work clamp or support on the other hand,- is relatively movable so as to enable the stitching to be carried along the sides of the button hole' 'and around its end or ends. Such stitch forming mechanism comprises usually an, eyepointed needle carrying the upper thread and, below and opposed thereto, the socalled complemental stitch forming mechanism or under-sewing mechanism, which carries and operates an under thread in cooperation with the needle carrying Types otunder-se'wing mechanism are known and illustrated in the following prior Letters Patent, namely: 494,280 of Mar. 28, 1893, 408,216 of May 23, 1.803, 655,637 of Aug. 7, 1900, (384,040 of 0ct. 8, 1901, 092,904 of Feb. 11, 1902, (395,039 of Mar. 11, 1902.

v As will be seen by reference to the above recited prior patents, heretofore known under-sewing mechanisms forcbuiton hole are extremely complicated and include many and irregularly shaped machine parts, relatively movable, and immovable, causing great. dii'iicultyfii design and construction and adjustment ant repair, thereby involving excessive first cost and maintenance. It has been heretofore understood that extreme complication was necessary or inherent in such mechanism. Perhaps more so in this than in any other mechanism. in'iprovements of simplification are both diilicultand highly desired- Any improvement rendering the mechanism simpler, dispensing with one or more parts thcrctot'ore required, or enabling dithcult parts to be more easily constructed or mdre :nlvantageously arranged in cooperation with other parts, would be highly useful not only because of simplification and cheapening, out because rendering the mechanism less likely to get into disorder.

It is one of the main objects of the presentimproyement to efi'ectsuch simplification as just referred to, particularly by eliminating parts and by more advantageously disposing parts which are retained.

/ The further and more detailed objects hereof will be set forthv in the hereinafter description or will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

I will first refer to my preferred embodiment of my present. improvement as applied to the mechanism which save for the features of improvement is generally simi lar to the mechanism of the aforesaid Patent 695,030, granted Mar. 11, 1902 upon the invention of JV. Vi. Dixon, and will there after point out the novel features in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a partial. rightblock or seat containing the-'unde r-sewing mechanism or the so-called'complemental stitchforming mechanism, the same being seen in what may for convenience be termed arear view. Fig. 3- is a left-hand side elevation of the circularly moving seat and under-sewing mechanism. Fig. 4 is a righthand side elevation-of the same, the parts being seen in the same view as in Fig. 1. Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the machine as it would be seen looking from theleft-hand side of Fig. 1, certain parts being broken away and others shown in section for better disclosure of-the interior; Fig/6 is a top plan view of the under-sewing mechanism as seen in Figs. 2, 3 and 4.-

Similar letters of reterence'dcsignate corrier 12 the curb or cant easing: 5 in practice secured to the movable stitch frame so as to travel with it under the clamp trainc, said casing 5 having suitable adjustable headed bolts (5 which bear against sum ways 7 at the under s de ot' the clamp irainc, the rod 8 do riving its moti n rrrni r1 (M11 in the stitch nine the cutter l and its carrying lever ltl the under thread r cdlo ll ueedh air-- to which is nod, said arrier l'iej'nu fitted to slide in a groove cut in the extension 13 .tornring; :1 ra e and rising from and preferably made as part of the block '14-, said block having the circular upper end 15 adapting it to receive at suitable times a circular movement,

he gear ll ital-:1 on 21' sleeve 17 extending'trcin black 14'. the tension device 18 for the under thread, the looper l9 and. the throat plate 20; a e the circular ring-like portion 21. of the casing 5. which receives within it the circular upper end 15 of the block 14, and depending from said r1115; 21 2, loop having formed through 1t centrally at its lower end an opening of such size as to loosely receive hollow hub of gear 16, th gear being applied to the sleeve l7 and fixed there by a suitzriiile nut 24-.

The sleeve l7 has ext-ended through it the hollow rod or bar 27, through the opening in its lower end the second or underneath thread, such thread being passed upwardly through the rod and into the under thread carrier 11. The thread may pass out of the hollow rod 25 through in aperture 20, passing about the tension device 18 before passing; to the under thread needle 11. The rod 25 has fixed to it below the gear 16 a ball or enlargement 27, it being as herein shown embraced between two loose cup-shaped disks 28 and 29, both loosely surrounding the rod 25 and contacting the ball 27, said disks being borne respectively-upon the two forks 30, 31 of a lever 32 piroted at 33 between two depending curved hangers ll, these hangers being connected in a suitable manner as by screws 35, with the loop-shaped dcpeinlinr portion 22 above referred to. The lever 32 is connected with the rod 8 as shown so that the cam operated increment of the rod causes the oscillation or the lever and thereby reeiprocaLes upwardly and downwardly the hollow rod or bar In continuing the description ot the mar chino illustrated in the drawings hereof, 1 will refer to the new partssuppli ed by 1116 and to the new arrangenicilt2; and 1011111 riations of parts, during which reference will necessarily be made to parts which. 720/" so are not new herein but are for the first time employed in the novel. inter'n'elations and 1 arrangements wluclrl seek to cover.

The oscillatory or sol M lled blockjl-il which may take any physlea oi'njgml' shall said rod receiving means term the stock, as it is merely a carriage or frame for suppm-ting the various working part; of the under mechanism. it shifts bodily; for example circularly with all the working parts supported by it and these parts thcuiselns more us may be required for stitching more or less iinlependentily of the stocks shifting.

(ilenerally speaking; the under sewing mechanism hereof comprises ,in combination the shii table stcclc referred to (said block or sent 14L and the following further cleinents supported by said stock. namely a movable under ncedle carrier (the slide 12), a movable thread looper (the hook shaped member 19), a' movable actuator (the up and -down reciprocating rod 25) adapted to be exteritn'ly operated independently of the stock's shifting, and connections hereinafter to be more specifically it lQSCl'llNKl, whereby said actuator uctuates both said carrier and said looper.

Before describing the manner oi. actuation of the needle carrier and looper and the connections therelozg I shall refer to a conrenicnt, thread take-up or u'ieasuring eontrivunoe shown herein, but which 71w so forms no p: rt ot' the present. invention. This comprises a tihrec-armed. lever 3t), 37, 5'38 pinned at it), the long arm. 36 having at its extremity an eye or aperture lorthe. thread, the arm 25? having a spring l0 vfor turning thc'lerer le'ftwise in Fig. 2, and the lovers oscillation being ellected through a pin ll on the iq'r-aiul-di'iwn moving actuator rod In order toadjust the n1m'en'ient' of the lever an adjustable stop 42 is provided, a portion of? which stands in the path of the arm 35a to limit to any desired degree the upward movement thereof. it will be understood that the carrier 12 is provided with a thread guide, for example as shown at 43, with which the looper arm ill; cooperates as in said Dixrn patient.

The movement of the needle 11 and can rier 1.2 is a simple oscillation. in the are of a circle determined by the guide or race 18 within which the carrier 12 moves to and fro, causing the needle to first pass upwardly through the button hole to a position above the fabric where it cooperates with the upper needle, the under needle then returning to a position beneath the fabric where it cooperates with both the looper and the upper no the in a well known manner. The operation of the looper 19 is not a simple operation. On the contrary the looper has two nu lions, first a bodily to-etnd-fro swing ing toward and from the-under needle and second a slight oscillation with itscarrier 1.9 upon thelfittings of the latter ina di reetion lateral to the to-a nd-:tro swinging. The resultant of these two motions is a curved path.- 'lhe-rmrpose of this motion, as will he well.understood, that the loop-er "meagre which is hook shaped and barbed, may form the necessary loop in the upper thread at' each successive descent of the upperneedle so that the lower needle may in subsequently ascending pass through theloop, thus causing the interlocking of the two threads. Thus three movements are required to be j provided for, namely thdup and-down oscillation of the needle and carrier, the longitudinal bodily-swinging of the looper and the slight lateral oscillation of the latter.

'In the mechanism hereof these movements are all accomplished substantially but six moving parts between the actuator'25 on the one'hand and the needle and looper on the other hand,these six parts affording trains of mechanism whichwill now be referred to generally-bvreference numerals, following which will be a'detailed description of the same-and theirfittings.

The train of parts for driving the needle and its carrier 12 comprises link con ne'cted at its lower end to the actuator 25, lever 60 connected to said link 50, and link 7 0 connecting said lever 60 with a stud upon arm 100 whose roller is contacted by the cam- 40 like eiitremity of lever 60, the rock shaft 101 which is in one piece with the roller arm 100, and withits rock-arm 102 is oscillated through'the movement of said roller arm,

and the swinging arm 91 which is 'in one piece with the swivel shaft 90 and is contacted by said rock-arm so that the oscillatory movement is transmitted to the swivel adj ustably shaft and thereby to the looper carrier and looper. p

I will now describe further in detail the trains of mechanism, thus generally referred to.

The link 50 is a short upright link partaking of the up-and-down movement of the actuator, 25, the lower end of the link being secured upon the actuator through a hollow block 51 surrounding the actuator and scoured thereon in desired position by a screw 52. The upper end of the link 50 is pivoted by connection with a portion of lever 60. The lever 60 is thus caused to swing about its fixed center shown as a screw stud 61. The lever 60 is of an inverted T shape, the cross arm or base of which is the top of the T and the long vertransmitters.

tically extending arm 62 of which is the leg of the T.

It will be noticed that unlike the prior Dixon patent, the lever 60 hereof is a sini ple one-piece lever instead of being com- :posite or built up of relatively movable parts. It will also benoticed that the'pivot (S1 is horizontal and that therefore the lever 60 swings exactly in a vertical'plane, which is unlike the prior patent where these parts had to be set at a considerable incline, thus involving not only relatively sliding parts composed in the lever, but a swiveling connection to the actuator rod, all-of which I have dispensed with. My construction in these respects moreover permits the simple actuation of the lever 60 by a link such 50, which is one of the simplest, most effective and easily adjustable, mechanical Theupper extremity of the upward arm 62 of lever 60, moving of course about the pivot 61, has a slanting motion with a considerable horizontal component. This l'lOI'l':

'zontal component I have transmitted to the needle carrier 12 by means of the link 70 extending from lever 60 to carrier 12. The connection from the link tothe. carrier is made through a stud 71 projecting from the carrier and extending through the 5 casting'13 which is apertured for that purpose to permit the to-a'nd-fro movements of the stud corresponding to the carriers movements. in Fig. 5 at 72. As will be Well understood the path of the lower needle must be in a This aperture. is partly seen slightly inclined plane inorder to secure the proper coiiperation of the lower and upper needles, this incline being plainly seen in Figs. 3 and thereof. By reason of this the movements of stud 71 and lever arm 62 are not in the'same plane, and I have therefore pivotedthe link 70 which connects them by universal joints 73, 74 at the two ends of the link. This arrangement permits one end-of thelink to depart slightly out of the plane of the movement of the other end, whilesecuring perfect ease of movement, efficient transmission and absence of twisting or other destructive tendency. The construction of the universal joints 73, 74 will be well understood and need not be elaborated.

The above completes the description of the operation of theneedle and carrier, and of the entire train of mechanism by which the motion of the actuator 25 is transmitted thereto. n

The cam lever 80, 'best seen in Fig.2, which effects the bodily longitudinal swinging of the looper and its carrier, is an extremely irregularly shaped'lever and is in fact for convenience composed of two pieces of metal secured rigidly together when in operation, both of which are fitted on a common stud 81. The cam part 8:2 of lever 80 is eccentrically slotted as shown, and 1s en aged by a pin 83 secured in and projec ing rearwardly from the actuator 25,

so that said pin as it is caused to rise, passes into the eccentric cam portion, causing the swinging thereof. The yoke part 84.; of lever 80 is likewise fitted over stud 81, and.tl1e two parts 32 and 8t of the lever are secured together so as to constitute substantially a single lover through a screw 85 passing directly through the cam part 82 into the yoke part 84. The two branches of the yoke part 8 are drilled to afford bearings for swivel shaft 90, which passes through both branches of the yoke part to where at its upper end it has rigidly connected to it the looper carrier 19. By this construction and arrangement the loopcr carrier borne upon the lever 80 is caused to swing bodily to right and left for a distance, for example, approximately equaling half the length of the looper; The loopers oscillation is attained partly through the link '50 and lever before mentioned. Said lover at its lower left-hand portion, Fig. 5, is provided with a cam 63 of the necessary contour to produce the proper loopcr oscillation. The cam 63 shown has an apex near its center tron 1 which it inclines away both above and below, the cam being for convenience constructed in two parts 6 1 and 65, secured by screws, the lower of which 66 maybe loosened for adjustment. Such adjustment is effected through the fact that the aperture in cam piece is larger than the screw shank whichengages it, as indicated in dotted lines, so that there is leeway for slightly shifting the cams apex to right or left before tightening the parts in their final adjustment.

As already stated the cam 63 engages roller arm 100, said arm having a roller 103 on its extremity for that purpose. The'up and-down cam moven'ients cause the roller to move left and rightjn Fig. 5, thereby causing the arm to swihg and causing the rock shaft 101 to oscillate. The upper end of the rock shaft is curved into what may for-convenience be termed a rock-arn'i 102, and t s necessarily pal-takes of the shafts oscillation. its seen in Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the

rock-arm 102 contacts directly behind the swinging arm -91, whereby the rock-arm oscillation causes the swinging arms swing ing. It will be noticed that the contact of rocloarm 102 and swinging arm 91 is substantially an axial contact unlike that shown in the prior Dixon patent, and I consider this arrangement very important in its working and results. By axial contact, I mean contact located, in the line or axis about which-the loo-per swings, which is coincident with the center line of the stud 81, on which the lever is titted. ale 2. consequence of this arrangement the position of the contacting end of the swing arm 91 is not altered during the longitudinal swinging movements of the looper. Consequently also there is upon the rock-arm only one point of contact instead oi a line of sliding contact as in said prior patent. Thus not only is wear from sliding avoided, but what is of more importance, the relative adjustment of the parts is rendered extremely easy, since a slight bending or shaping of either the rock-arm or the swinging arm will sufiice to bring them into proper relations, where immense ditliculty was met in adjusting or readjusting the rock-arm of the prior patent. This advantageous arrangement also permits the employment of a small light pushing spring 99, composed for convenience of spring wire, which presses inwardly against the swinging arm 91, thus keeping it in forcible contact with the rock-arm and thus also exerting a pressure against the rock-arm which serves to keep the roller 103 of the rock shaft in constant contact with its actuating cam-63.

It will be noticed that although the lever (50 hereof is more simple in structure and fitting than the lever oi the prior patent, it nevertheless performs greater service, as therein are consolidated not only the lever connections for swinging the needle, but the cam 63 for swinging the rock-arm, whereas in the prior patent a complicated separate rocker cam is employed involving independent slide. and block connections with the actuator bar, and an additional hole in said bar which is objectionable owing to the very great strain upon the bar in practical use. This advantageous and simple construction of the present application'is due in part to the improvement of shifting the rock shaft from that side of the stock on which the lever 60 is pivoted to the opposite side of the st ock. and the improvement in this respect cooperates with the novel relative arrangement of rock-arm and swinging arm above referred to, so that by the combined features of improvement a very greatsimplification is effected. Additionally attention is called that the advantageous noneccentric n'lovemen't of lever 60 and the easier motion occasioned thereby enable dispensing with a special guide for the left end of said lever 60, as had to be employed in said prior patent, and by dispensing with the need of said guide, the lever is better able to be accommodated to'the provision of a rocker cam at its left side.

The operation of the present invention will now be sufiicicntly understood by those skilled in the art. WVhen the under needle is in lowestposition the hooked end of the looper partly surrounds the needle path and holds a loop of upper thread. i i hen the parts are in this position the actuator is fit)- its lowest position. *In operation it will be understood that the actuator vibrates upwardly and downwardly with extreme rapidity. Un each vibration of the actuator the following operations occur: The under needle commences to rise through the loop 0i upper thread, and at the same time the looper commences to oscillate in a direction, referring to Fig. 2, away from the observer, thus clearing the barb of the looper from the needle path to permit the loopers subsequent longitudinal movement. During this first portion of the operations,

the looser is not being recin-ocatcd or swung longitudinally because the looper. lever cam 82 presents a straigl'it or inactive portion to the pin 83. As'these motions continue the loopers maximum oscillation from the observer is attained when the roller-103 has reached the apex of .the rocker cam 53, and at the same time the pin 83'commences to enter the e centric portion of the looper lever cam 82, the needle continuously ascend- 'lhereafter the looper lever comtiine oscillating toward the observer until eventually the looper has attained its extreme right-hand position, Fig. 2, in a curved path, and the needle has reached its highest position. Thereupon the operations are exactly reversed upon the descent of the actuator. It will of course be understood that the upper needle is vertically vibrating in harmony with the under sewing mechanism, audit will also be understood that the actuators up-and-down movements I may be regular or irregular without alter ing the above described order of .operations' it will thus be seen that I have provided an under sewing mechanism for button hole sewii'i g machines which possesses lheadvanta gjcs and attains the objects hereinbefore recited, and further and other advantages art.

The folloi'riug' remarks are made to attord a better understanding of the appended wlaims: 'lhe cam levcrSO comprising the parts and M- s the lever which carries -thc loopcr, in its longitudinal movements,

and will therefore be termed a looperlevcr'. The lever lit) which intermediate the actu :itor and the needle cai'rier,..an'rl also internwdiat- 1hr a'cluatur and the rock shaft, w ll simply b t rmed the intermediary, and it hliviousiy ma) take dili'crcnt physical forms. The Following parts may all be lrizucd connm'tions or connecting devices, nauu-ivylhr linltthe am and lolhl' ltl i. lllt link 7U, the pivotal or swivel slial'i SN). and the pin and cam R3. Therzfi'rilacl helm-en nick-arm 102 and swinging will be apparent to those tamiliar with the :u-ln di while not strictly a roiiriw-tion is direct engagement tor which )bVlOliSiy might be substituted an indirect form of engagement. Indeed for any of the connections referred to, reversals might be made or other connections substituted, and I therefore do not intend any limitation to the details hereot excepting as set forth in, the appended claims respectively. .VVhere a member is composed of parts 'Which in use are permanently and rigidly securedtogether in fixed relation, such member may be termed a one-piece member, although it is not a single integral piece of metal. 'The bodily longitudinal swinging of the looper 'with the looperlever 80 will be termed a reciprocation as distinguished from the slight oscillation of the l'ooper about its swivel shaft 90.

What I claim and desire ters Patent is:

1. For a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namelyfa movableun'der needle carrier tittedto travel in an inclined plane, a movable thread looper, a mo able actuator adapted to be exteriorly operated independently of the stcclts shifting, and connections whereby said actuator actuatcs carrier to secure by Let.-

and said loo per, such connections comprising an inverted ,T shaped onepiece, intermediary, swingii'ig lever having a cross arm and an upward arm, a horizontal pivot for one end of the. cross arm ot'said intermediary lever at one side of the stock, a link connect ingthe levers cross arm to said actuator,

d said storidt, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movahle thread looper, a vertically sliding actuator ha 1' adapted to'be exteriorly operated indeprnd 'utly of the stocks shitting. and connections whereby said actuator bar actuates said rarrier and loo per, said coimectious comprising: an intermediary which is distinct from, movable relatively to, and driven by. said actuator, and possesses an upward and a'trausrcrsc arm, a train of mechanical connections "from the upward arm of said intermediary to theneedle carrier, and an indepci'idcnt train of mechanical connections from the transverse arm of said intermediary to the looper. e

3. =l or :1 button hole sewing machine of the type having in ans torcontrolling the upper thread, an under sewing mechanism, comprising in combination, a shiftable stock fand the following elements supported by said stock namely: a movable. under needle carrier, a movablethread looper. a verti ally sliding actuator bar adapted to he exteriorly operated independently of the stocks shittand connections where y said actuator aotuales said carrier and loopen said connections comprising an intermediary which possesses an upward and a transverse arm and is swung by connection from the actuator, a 10Cl(-iil'll\ and shaft, a connection from the said transverse arm to said rock shaft and connections whereby the rock-arm oscillates the looper, and connections from said upward arm to the carrier which are independent of the looper actuating connections.

t. For a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread. an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shittable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier fitted to travel in an inclined plane, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be exteriorly operated independently of the stoeks shifting, and connections whereby said actuator aetuates said carrier and said looper,,such connections comprising an inverted T shaped one-piece, inlermedialswinging lever having a. cross arm and an upward arm, a horizontal pivot for one end of the cross arm of said intermediary lever at; one side of the stock, a link connecting the levers CIOSS,H.'H1 to said aetuator, a link connecting the levers upward arm to said carrier, said last named linl: having universal joints at its two ends. and means at the swinging end of said cross: arm for causing the operation of said looper.

5. For a button hole sewing; machine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread, an under sewing" mechanism compr sing in combination, a shitlable stock and the following elements SIH YPOT'lCLl by said stooki 'namelyz a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper. a movable actuator adapted to be exteriorly operated independently of the. slncks shitting. and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper,' said connections comprising-a roclearm and shaitft for oscillatiug the looper, an intermel'liary lever having a cross arm and an upward arm, said lever pivoted to the stock at one side and said cross arm having; at the opposite side a cam connection. for operating the rock shaft, and said upward arm having eoiniection to the carrier, and a connection from the actuator to the lever.

6. For a button hole sewing u'iachine of: the type having means for controlling the upper thread, an under sewing mechanism eomprisine in combination, a shiflable stock and the tollowing elements supported .by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be exteriorlv operated independentl3 ot the stocks shitting, and connections wherrhr said actuator actuates said. carrier and looper. said connections comprising a swiiug'iugloopei' lever actuated from the actuator and having the looper ])l\'0l:1ll V supported on it a swinging arm for causing the loopers oscillatil-ni and a reel-arm and shaft. oscillated from the actuator, the rock-arm and swinging arm oppositely located and arrangg'ed to extend from opposite sides of the steel: toward each other into nuu'ual engagement, whereby through said reclcarm and shaft the actuator may oscillate the looper.

7. For button hole sewing in achine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combiinition. a shili'tatde steel: and the Following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a

movable actuator adapted lo be exteriorly operated independently of the stoclts shift ing, and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and l(')(') l)l.L: said con nections comprising a swinging looper lever aetufited from the actuator and having: the

looper pivotally supported on it. a swinging arm for causin the humor? oscillation, and

a rock-arm and shaft oscillated from the ne tnator, the roclcarm and wringing arm arranged and constructed to mutually engage ata point. substantially in the looper l0Vtl -5 axis of swinging.

8. For a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread. an under sewii'ig mechanism coi'iu'u'iainn in conihinalimi a shittable stock and the following elmnents supported by said stock. nainelv: a mova le und :r carrier, a movable thread looper. a movable actuator adapted to he oxteriorly operateo imlependeutlv ol the stocks shifting, and l-onnertirms wherebv said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising a swinging looper lever actuated. from the actuator and having the looper pivotally supported on it a swinging arm for causing the loopers oscillation, and a rock-arm and shaft oscillaten from the actuator the roeloarm and swinging" arm an ranged and constructed to mutually Contact at a point substantially in the looper levers axis of swinging, and means for j ieldingly pressing the swinging arm toward the rockarm.

9. For a hut-ton hole sewing :i'naehine of the type lnivine means for controlling the upper thread an under sewing" mechanism comprising in comhinatitm, a shittablo stock and the 'lollowingelements supported by said stock. namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adapted to be ext-eriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and

connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising fittings for permitting reciprocation and, oscillationof said looper, a swinging arm reciprocating and oscillating with said looper, and a rock-arm located to contact the swinging arm in the axis. of re c procation for causmg oscillation of the looper.

10. F or a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling the.

'upper thread, an under sewing mechanism comprisin in combination, a shittable stock and the said stock, namely a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a movable actuator adaptedto be exteriorly operated independently of the stocks shifting, and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising an intermediary lever, connec} tions from said actuator tosaid intermediary, connections from said intermediary lever-to said carrier, a swinging looper leveractuated from the actuator and having the looper pivotally supported on it. a swinging arm for causing-the loopers oscillation, and a rock-arm and shaft oscillated fro-m the intermediary, the rock-arm. and swinging arm oppositely located and arranged to mutually engage, whereby through said rock-o 'arm and shaft the actuator may oscillate comprising an intermediary lever, connections from said actuator to said intermediary, connections from said intermediary leyer to said carrier, a swinging looper lever actuated from the actuator and having the looper plvotally supported on it a swinging arm for causing the loopers oscillation. and

a rock-arm and shaft oscillated from the intermediary. the rock-arm and swinging arm arranged and constructed to mutually in the loopcr engage at a point substantially levers axis of swinging.

12. For a button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread, an under sewincmechanism comprising in combination. a shittablestock and the following elements supported by said stock. namely: a'movahlc undcuiwcdlc carrier, a movable thread looping a movable acti'iator adapted to bc exteriorly operated ollowing elements supportedby i independently of the stocks shifting, and

cation and oscillation of said v looper, aswinging arm reciprocatingand oscillating with said looper, and a rock-arni'located to contact the swinging arm in the axisof reciprocation for causing oscillation of the looper, an intermediary lever, connections from said lever to the carrier for. actuating it,'connections fromsaid lever to the rockarm for actuating it, and'connections from the actuator to the lever.

13. Fora button hole sewing machine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread, an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock, namely: a movable under needle carrier, a movable thread looper, a mov- 'a-ble actuator'adapted to be exteriorly op erat'ed independently of the'stocks shifting, and-connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connec tions comprising a lever actuated from said actuator, a rock-arm and shaft for oscillating said looper, a contact or roller arm on said shaft and a cam on said lever for connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and. looper, said connections comprising a lever actuated from said actu- .ator, a rock-arm and shaft for oscillating said looper, a contact or roller arm on said shaft and a cam onsald lever for engaging said arm, said cam composed of two toothengaged pieces adjustable as to their relathrough an aperture in one of said pieces which aperture is substantially larger'thanl the screw" shank.

Ill

For a buttonhole sewing machine 01 connections whereby said actuator actuates' said carrier and looper. said connections comprising a looper lever carrying the looper and having; a connection to the actuator. an intermediary having a connection to the actuator, a connection between said intermediary and the carrier. a roclcarln and l al t having a connection to said intermedial-y, a pivotal connection between the, loi'ipen and looper lever and an arm extending from said looper to engagement with said 'LOCh-fll'lll.

16. For a button hole sewing inachine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread, an under sewing mechanism inprising' in ctn'nbiinitioi'i. a shittable stock and the following elements supported by said stock. namely: a movable under needle car 'ier. a movable thread looper. a movable actuator, adapted to be exteriorly operated independentlywif the stocksshil'ting'. and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper said. connections comprising a loopcr lever carrying the loopcr and having a connection to the actuator, a link. a one-piece intermediary con.

nected by said link to the actuator, a connection, between said intermediary and the 'carrier, a rock-ari'n and shaft having a connection to said intermediary, a pivotal con nertion between the looper andlooper lever and an arm extending from said looper to engagement with said rock-arm. V

17h For av button hole'sewing machine of the type having means for controlling the upper thread. an under sewing mechanism comprising in combination. a shiftable stock and the following elements supported by said stock. namely: a movable under needle carrier, a. movable thread looper, a movable aetiiator adapted to be exteriorly,.operated independently of the stocks shifting. and connections whereby said actuator actuates said carrier and looper, said connections comprising a looperlever carrying the looper and having a connection to the actuator,

an intern'iediary having a connection to the actuator and pivoted to one side of the diary and the carrier. a rock-arm and shal't located at the opposite side otthe stock and having a connection tr said intern'iediary, a pivotal connection between the looper and loopcr lever and an arm extending from .said looper to engagement with said rockarin.

ltt'llor a button hole sewing ma hine (l the type having mean-4 rot controlling" the upper thread. an under swine mechanism comprising in combination, a sl. table stock and ihelollowingg elements support-Ml by .isaid stock. nam ly: a movable under needle carrie a movable thread looper. a movable actuator adapted to be exteriorly operat d imlependentlv.ol the sto ks shitting. and

connections whereby said actuator acl'ualcs said roe said carrier and looper. said connections rmnprisin; a looper lever carrying the looper and having a connecti n to the actuator, an intermediary ot the Form of an invcrted T having a connection to the actuator and pivoted to one side ol the stock. a con neclion between said inlerimdiary and the carrieizn reel-earn] and shall lovai'ed at the opposite side of the stock and having: a ram onnection to said iutirrmedhir a pivotal connection between the looper and looper lever and an arm extending l'roin said looper toeuganeinent with said rocl-sarm.

1,9. For a hullou hole wing machine of 'the type having means for controlling the upper thread. an under sewing mechanism comprisuiz; in comlnnation. a shil lable stool: and the following elements supported by ing. and connections whereby said actuator acluates said carrier and looper, said con nections comprising a looper lever carrying the looper and having; a connection to the actuator. a link. a one-piece intermediary connected by said link to the a tuator and pivoted to swine in'a vertical plane. a linkand-universal-joint connection between said intern'iediary and the carrier. :1 rock-arm and shaft having a ronne titm to said intermediar v. a pivotal cmmeetirm between the looper and looper love" and anarm extending from said hroper to engagement. with so id rock-a rm.

20. For a button hole sewing macl'iine ol the type having means for controlling the upper thread. an under. sewing mechanism comprising in combination, a shiltablc stock and the following" elements supported by said stool-I. namely: a movable under needle carrier. a movable thread looper. a movable actuator adapted to be cxteriorly operated independentlyot the sloclrs shifting. and

comicctions whereb} said actuator actuates said carrier and looper. said connections r-oi'nprisingr a loopcr lever carrying the looper and having a connection to the actuator. an ii'ilermediary having a connection to the actuator a connection between said intermediary and the carrier, :1 rocleari'n and h ft having a connection to said intermediary, a pivotal mnuertion between the looper and looper lever and an arm extendin; Holiusnirl looper lo cnajae cmr-nt with earn], the engaging position ol said arm and lO(l(-l1lll'l being on th axis about which said looper lever swings.

'21. For a button hole sewing. machine ot' the type l] ;l.\'lilf,! means for rulrollin; r the upper thread. an under sewhin; mechanism comprising in combination. a shil lable stool; and the following elements su 'iported' by id stock. namely: a movable under needle 

